Return journey

 Part 2 (return journey): India to USA

Background

I recently visited India (Guwahati, Assam) from New York City (NYC). After doing a 14-day home quarantine and visiting parents, it was time for my return trip. While there has been some confusion about whether or not RT-PCR test result is required for passengers transiting via Europe, I decided to get tested about 72 hours before departure at Assam's only private laboratory doing PCR tests. I went to the testing facility early morning around 7:30 AM, but I certainly wasn't the first one to arrive! While social distancing was not strictly followed, the lab personnel were meticulously sanitizing the facility and the line was moving quickly. The lab was charging र 3500 (approx. US$ 50), and promised to have the results ready within 36 hours. I did get my results the next day...and now, it was time to pack my bags.

Leg 1: GAU to DEL

I arrived at Guwahati Airport (GAU) approximately 3 hours prior to scheduled departure. It was hot & humid (94 degrees F), and the queue was already building up with minimal social distancing. Security and check-in, however, was fairly swift. GAU airport does not have a Priority Pass lounge, so I grabbed a beverage and read my book.

I have never flown Vistara's Business class before, but opted this time primarily to maintain in-flight social isolation. I also opted for Vistara because they operate out of DEL Terminal 3 - critical for smooth transit from domestic arrivals to international departures (more on this below). Boarding was utterly chaotic - while everyone had a mask and a face shield on (middle seat occupants also were required to wear the latex free gowns), literally no one followed social distancing guidelines. I observed the boarding process (mostly, in horror) from the sidelines as business class passengers were boarding last. Business and main cabins were 50% and 70% (approximately) occupied, respectively. We had an on-time departure from GAU, but touched down late in DEL (22 minutes to be exact) due to heavy air traffic. No meals or snacks were served due to Government of India restrictions on in-flight dining, even though the rules have been relaxed recently. I watched Netflix for a while, and then fell asleep while reading my book. Overall, a fairly uneventful start to my return trip. (PS. Below is a pic of the mighty Brahmaputra River).

Leg 2: DEL to AMS

I was the first to deplane, and my very first reaction was - boy, the airport is empty! I have transited through DEL numerous times, and never, ever is this airport so scantily crowded. 

I picked up my luggage at domestic arrivals, and headed straight to international departures - all within Terminal 3. As pointed above, this is something to bear in mind - some of the low budget carriers, such as Indigo and SpiceJet, operate out of Terminal 1. While certainly doable, it is a pain to transfer terminals in DEL; best to avoid if possible. There was no queue for AK/KLM Business Class (or Sky Priority) check-in. The queues were equally shorter for immigration and security. Again, a surreal experience for me given how busy DEL can get during "regular" times. Now, I always make it a point to swing by the "Delhi Baazar" to get some handicrafts or locally manufactured jewelry for the Mrs. and my daughter. To my utter disappointment, the store was closed. I asked around, and was told that the closure was temporary and the Baazar "might" re-open around late October for the Diwali season; I truly hope so! Multiple other stores were also closed and the terminal was absolutely deserted. 

With almost a 6 hour layover before my DEL-AMS flight and not much to look around in the terminal, I headed towards the Plaza Premium Lounge (Level 4, International Departures after Security). As expected, the lounge wasn't busy. Proper social distancing was maintained, and food can be ordered à la carte. I settled for a non-vegetarian Indian meal and a Mango Mousse cake. Food was served promptly, and I was hungry! I caught up on some email, called family members, read my book, and then headed to the gate about an hour before the scheduled departure. It was almost 2AM in the morning...and my batteries were running low. I needed to sleep.

Boarding for DEL-AMS promptly began around 2AM local time. Business Cabin was nearly empty, and Main Cabin was about 20% full. We had an on-time departure, and needless to say, I was ready to retire. Due to Government of India restrictions, no "hot meals" are served on-board for flights ex India, which I knew. What didn't know and expect, was a bag of "dry kachori"! I politely kept the bag of snacks on the side, and probably fell asleep within 10 minutes of being airborne. The KLM B777 J seats are narrower compared to their B787s; I didn't care and had a good 6-7 hours of much needed sleep. 

About 30 minutes before landing at AMS, the flight attendants brought a tray of the famous KLM miniature Delft Blue Houses. Given that the business cabin was empty, the attendant let me pick two - will keep adding them to my air travel memorabilia. As expected, AMS was also less crowded, but almost all stores were open. I quickly headed to KLM Lounge 52 which was somewhat busy; again not crowded by any means. Everyone was maintaining social distancing and following proper mask wearing etiquette. I grabbed some breakfast, caught up on my email, and then headed to my gate about an hour before departure for my last leg.

Leg 3: AMS to JFK

Boarding for this last leg started promptly. There were overall around 60 passengers for this whole flight...approximately 10 in the Business Cabin. I settled in quickly after boarding, and we had an on time departure. A hot lunch was served (unlike KLM’s flight). I read for a while, watched Netflix, and then took a good 3-4 hour nap so that I am fresh when we arrive at JFK (and also to beat the jet lag). Prior to arrival, another hot snack was served...felt more like a lunch to me.

We arrived about 25 minutes before ETA. All passengers were required to self-screening questionnaire which at the time of deplaning Emergency Management Services folks were asking for. After a quick temperature check, I headed to passport control. With my Global Entry card, I was done with immigration and near the baggage claim in under 5 minutes. Even the lines for US Visa Holders were shorter, I noticed. Finally, after almost 30 hours, it was good to be back home with family.

Onward journey

 Part 1 (onward journey): USA to India

Background

I had to plan for a trip in July/August from New York City (NYC) to Guwahati, Assam (GAU) to visit my parents. As an US citizen, I had always traveled to India on a tourist visa for many years. Never thought of applying for an OCI card...until now (due to Govt. of India travel restrictions). Once NYC entered “Phase 2” of reopening, and the Indian Consulate in NYC resumed partial consular services, I applied for my OCI card late June. To my surprise, the application was approved within a week or so, and I received my OCI card within 18 days! Really appreciative of the consulate staff who I am sure were helping many of us during these difficult, unprecedented times. 

Flight reservations

Armed with my newly minted OCI card, I set forward to make flight arrangements. A friend introduced me to a Facebook Group where many stranded travelers across the globe were sharing experiences and helping out. I learned a lot here - so, thank you! My first attempt was to book tickets via Air India (AI) for early August to fly from Newark, NJ (EWR) to New Delhi (DEL). For a variety of reasons, I was unsuccessful in booking tickets either via the AI website or their app. I never tried United Airlines (UA)...not a big fan, but that is another story for another day. Now, truth to be told, as a frequent flyer with Delta (and the Sky Team Alliance) where I have status and am always treated “superbly”, my attempts with AI or UA were half-hearted. So, once the “India-France” air bubble was announced in mid July, and Air France (AF) was allowed to fly to India, I booked my tickets to fly out from NYC (JFK) to Delhi (DEL) via Paris (CDG). This was in the business cabin throughout. 

Forms...forms...and then some more

With tickets booked, it was time to prepare all sorts of documents and paperwork. The following documents are required by every traveler regardless of which airlines/route they fly: 

• Self-reporting form
• Undertaking cum indemnity form
• Registration with the Indian Embassy in DC

For passengers flying via CDG, the French authorities and AF required two more forms to be filled:

• Registration with the Indian Embassy in Paris
• Individual attestation

Now, one need not worry if they have not pre-filled these forms at home - the airline/airport authorities will help out, mostly, patiently (don’t forget to carry your own pen though!). Personally, I prefer to have all paperwork done early and avoid unnecessary drama at the airport.

New twist...RT-PCR testing & home quarantine policy

About 10-12 days prior to my departure, I receive an email from AF stating that all passengers either entering France or transiting, are required to have a negative RT-PCR COVID test result prior to boarding from the US. Initially, there was a bit of confusion about transit passengers, or even when this rule will be applicable, it became clear that having the test done will be “safer”. Given that I work at an university hospital where testing is done in-house, I could get my RT-PCR test results in 24 hours or less. This was, and still is, clearly not true for a vast majority of the international travelers in the US - this is unfortunate, and I feel their pain. 

In addition to this, in early August, the Ministry of Civil Aviation in India released new guidelines stating that those who wish to home quarantine, now have the option to submit a negative RT-PCR test report to Indian authorities in <96 hours of undertaking their journey for consideration. If approved, one is exempted from mandatory institutional quarantine. 

So, exactly 3 days before my departure, I got my RT-PCR test results and uploaded at the DEL Airport portal for consideration. My approval for home quarantine arrived within 8 hours of submission.

I was more or less all set to travel. Time to pack my bags.

Leg 1: JFK to CDG

I arrived at JFK about T-4 hours prior to departure. I travel light, and check in is normally quick for me. Not today. Delta agents were making sure that all my documents were in order, double/triple checked the validity of my OCI card, asked questions about RT-PCR results, COVID related symptoms, and so on. Once I got my boarding passes (JFK-CDG & CDG-DEL), with my CLEAR membership, I zipped past security. Lines were shorter anyway.

I can’t even count the number of times I have been at JFK - the place is always bustling with people. Today was surreal - JFK (Terminal 4) was literally a ghost town. Even the Delta Sky Club, where during “normal” times, there is a queue to check in, was eerily quiet. Really an odd feeling for someone who hasn’t flown since March of this year.

About 45 minutes prior to departure, I headed to the gate. With Delta’s policy of capping seats in each cabin and just the fact that fewer people are flying in general, our flight had just under 50 passengers. Boarding was swift, and we had an on-time departure. Of note, Delta was boarding in reverse order - business cabin boards last. (So, Delta 360’s & Diamonds, no need to fret 😉). 

Dinner was served early. I watched Netflix for about 30 minutes, and then retired with my book immediately to get 4-5 hours of napping time.

Leg 2: CDG to DEL

We touched down about 30 minutes earlier than the ETA. Contrary to JFK, CDG was busy - lots of people, and most stores were open. After changing terminals, I headed straight to the AF lounge to freshen up and grab a cup of cappuccino. I reached the gate about an hour before our scheduled departure. 

Now, this was busy - I mean, really busy. Several passengers were confused with documents and forms needed. While almost everyone had a mask, social distancing was somewhat of an alien concept. During boarding, forms were checked, and body temperature was taken. I realized that some passengers were asked to show evidence of a negative COVID test during boarding, and others weren’t. I was in the latter category. Guess it somewhat depended on the AF gate/boarding agent. Here again, business cabin boarded last, and based on my estimate, this flight was approximately 70% full.

Our departure was delayed by about 30 minutes, and my prior experience flying the CDG-DEL route multiple times suggests that this is typical. Lunch was served within minutes after airborne - I ate some, and then immediately went off to sleep. After all, I needed all the “energy” and be fully awake at DEL 😃

We had an on-time arrival at DEL (Terminal 3). I suppose an AI flight and another one (Emirates?) arrived around the same time. As such, the place was a “mini zoo”. Social distancing was now truly an alien concept to the extent that few passengers were pushing each other to get ahead in the queue - unfortunately, very typical. 

There was a clear demarcation for two groups of international passengers: those who have been “pre-approved”, and others who weren’t. I was in the former group — simply showed my approval letter from DEL authorities, submitted a copy of the self-reporting and undertaking forms, and directly headed to the “next desk”. For those in the latter group, which was huge, passengers were divided by their final destination/state-wise. 

There were about 20-25 passengers in the “pre-approved” group, and the queue was moving fast. As expected, I was given the stamp of approval for 14-days of home quarantine. Then I proceeded to immigration, which was done under 5 minutes. Picked up my luggage, cleared customs, and headed to domestic departures in Terminal 3. The overall process took under 2 hours - yes, less than 120 minutes, and I was prepared for a 4-5 hour ordeal! 

Of note, it is probably a wise idea to do online check in for your domestic leg early as it can expedite the transfer from international arrival to domestic departure. 

Leg 3: DEL to GAU

I had a 6 hour layover in DEL before my last leg to GAU via Air Asia (IA). In retrospect, I could have probably taken an earlier flight, but I would rather have a longer layover than miss my connecting flight during these weird times. After check in and security, I headed straight to the Plaza Premium Lounge. They were limiting to 50% capacity (max 56 passengers allowed), and were offering food å la carte. I grabbed something to eat with masala chai, and replied to few emails before heading to my gate about 45 minutes prior to departure.

The IA flight to GAU was almost 80% full. We had an on-time departure, and I fell asleep even before the take-off. I was under the impression that the process at GAU will be straightforward given that I had already been cleared at DEL for home quarantine. Boy, was I wrong. 

At GAU, after luggage collection, one has to fill forms indicating whether they are heading to “Kamrup Metro”, “Kamrup Rural”, “Other Parts of Assam”, or “Other North East States”. Based on this triage, the formalities are different. I was heading to Beltola - hence, “Kamrup Metro”. After doing the required paperwork, I was about to leave the airport with our driver, and was then stopped by an official - “Sir, have you done RT-PCR COVID testing, and if so, when?”. When he found that I had a negative test result, but not done today and not at a Government of Assam testing facility, I was sent back to the “Kamrup Metro” desk. I, of course, pushed back, but to no avail. Evidently, all air travel passengers have to undergo mandatory Assam Government testing before they can travel further. 

So, along with around 15 more passengers, we were transported to a centralized testing facility via an Assam State Corporation bus. The journey took just under an hour with traffic and support from an Assam Police escort vehicle. 

On our arrival, we were promptly triaged to “Waiting Area 1”, where passengers had to declare the purpose of their visit, install Arogya Setu app, and subsequently do on the spot rapid antigen and RT-PCR testing. The AC seemed to be working, but the arena felt hot and humid. To their credit, all medical and lab personnel were very patient and extremely helpful, especially with the older adults in our group.

After testing, we waited for about an hour in “Waiting Area 2”. Everyone in my group tested negative, and we were allowed to exit the site and get stamped on our way out. I was approved for 14-day home quarantine, finally!  The overall process took almost 4 hours. 

From the time I started at JFK till now, it has been just under 36 hours. Clearly, I was exhausted, and more than ready to go home.