Part 1 (onward journey): USA to India
Background
I had to plan for a trip in July/August from New York City (NYC) to Guwahati, Assam (GAU) to visit my parents. As an US citizen, I had always traveled to India on a tourist visa for many years. Never thought of applying for an OCI card...until now (due to Govt. of India travel restrictions). Once NYC entered “Phase 2” of reopening, and the Indian Consulate in NYC resumed partial consular services, I applied for my OCI card late June. To my surprise, the application was approved within a week or so, and I received my OCI card within 18 days! Really appreciative of the consulate staff who I am sure were helping many of us during these difficult, unprecedented times.
Flight reservations
Armed with my newly minted OCI card, I set forward to make flight arrangements. A friend introduced me to a Facebook Group where many stranded travelers across the globe were sharing experiences and helping out. I learned a lot here - so, thank you! My first attempt was to book tickets via Air India (AI) for early August to fly from Newark, NJ (EWR) to New Delhi (DEL). For a variety of reasons, I was unsuccessful in booking tickets either via the AI website or their app. I never tried United Airlines (UA)...not a big fan, but that is another story for another day. Now, truth to be told, as a frequent flyer with Delta (and the Sky Team Alliance) where I have status and am always treated “superbly”, my attempts with AI or UA were half-hearted. So, once the “India-France” air bubble was announced in mid July, and Air France (AF) was allowed to fly to India, I booked my tickets to fly out from NYC (JFK) to Delhi (DEL) via Paris (CDG). This was in the business cabin throughout.
Forms...forms...and then some more
With tickets booked, it was time to prepare all sorts of documents and paperwork. The following documents are required by every traveler regardless of which airlines/route they fly:
For passengers flying via CDG, the French authorities and AF required two more forms to be filled:
Now, one need not worry if they have not pre-filled these forms at home - the airline/airport authorities will help out, mostly, patiently (don’t forget to carry your own pen though!). Personally, I prefer to have all paperwork done early and avoid unnecessary drama at the airport.
New twist...RT-PCR testing & home quarantine policy
About 10-12 days prior to my departure, I receive an email from AF stating that all passengers either entering France or transiting, are required to have a negative RT-PCR COVID test result prior to boarding from the US. Initially, there was a bit of confusion about transit passengers, or even when this rule will be applicable, it became clear that having the test done will be “safer”. Given that I work at an university hospital where testing is done in-house, I could get my RT-PCR test results in 24 hours or less. This was, and still is, clearly not true for a vast majority of the international travelers in the US - this is unfortunate, and I feel their pain.
In addition to this, in early August, the Ministry of Civil Aviation in India released new guidelines stating that those who wish to home quarantine, now have the option to submit a negative RT-PCR test report to Indian authorities in <96 hours of undertaking their journey for consideration. If approved, one is exempted from mandatory institutional quarantine.
So, exactly 3 days before my departure, I got my RT-PCR test results and uploaded at the DEL Airport portal for consideration. My approval for home quarantine arrived within 8 hours of submission.
I was more or less all set to travel. Time to pack my bags.
Leg 1: JFK to CDG
I arrived at JFK about T-4 hours prior to departure. I travel light, and check in is normally quick for me. Not today. Delta agents were making sure that all my documents were in order, double/triple checked the validity of my OCI card, asked questions about RT-PCR results, COVID related symptoms, and so on. Once I got my boarding passes (JFK-CDG & CDG-DEL), with my CLEAR membership, I zipped past security. Lines were shorter anyway.
I can’t even count the number of times I have been at JFK - the place is always bustling with people. Today was surreal - JFK (Terminal 4) was literally a ghost town. Even the Delta Sky Club, where during “normal” times, there is a queue to check in, was eerily quiet. Really an odd feeling for someone who hasn’t flown since March of this year.
About 45 minutes prior to departure, I headed to the gate. With Delta’s policy of capping seats in each cabin and just the fact that fewer people are flying in general, our flight had just under 50 passengers. Boarding was swift, and we had an on-time departure. Of note, Delta was boarding in reverse order - business cabin boards last. (So, Delta 360’s & Diamonds, no need to fret 😉).
Dinner was served early. I watched Netflix for about 30 minutes, and then retired with my book immediately to get 4-5 hours of napping time.
Leg 2: CDG to DEL
We touched down about 30 minutes earlier than the ETA. Contrary to JFK, CDG was busy - lots of people, and most stores were open. After changing terminals, I headed straight to the AF lounge to freshen up and grab a cup of cappuccino. I reached the gate about an hour before our scheduled departure.
Now, this was busy - I mean, really busy. Several passengers were confused with documents and forms needed. While almost everyone had a mask, social distancing was somewhat of an alien concept. During boarding, forms were checked, and body temperature was taken. I realized that some passengers were asked to show evidence of a negative COVID test during boarding, and others weren’t. I was in the latter category. Guess it somewhat depended on the AF gate/boarding agent. Here again, business cabin boarded last, and based on my estimate, this flight was approximately 70% full.
Our departure was delayed by about 30 minutes, and my prior experience flying the CDG-DEL route multiple times suggests that this is typical. Lunch was served within minutes after airborne - I ate some, and then immediately went off to sleep. After all, I needed all the “energy” and be fully awake at DEL 😃
We had an on-time arrival at DEL (Terminal 3). I suppose an AI flight and another one (Emirates?) arrived around the same time. As such, the place was a “mini zoo”. Social distancing was now truly an alien concept to the extent that few passengers were pushing each other to get ahead in the queue - unfortunately, very typical.
There was a clear demarcation for two groups of international passengers: those who have been “pre-approved”, and others who weren’t. I was in the former group — simply showed my approval letter from DEL authorities, submitted a copy of the self-reporting and undertaking forms, and directly headed to the “next desk”. For those in the latter group, which was huge, passengers were divided by their final destination/state-wise.
There were about 20-25 passengers in the “pre-approved” group, and the queue was moving fast. As expected, I was given the stamp of approval for 14-days of home quarantine. Then I proceeded to immigration, which was done under 5 minutes. Picked up my luggage, cleared customs, and headed to domestic departures in Terminal 3. The overall process took under 2 hours - yes, less than 120 minutes, and I was prepared for a 4-5 hour ordeal!
Of note, it is probably a wise idea to do online check in for your domestic leg early as it can expedite the transfer from international arrival to domestic departure.
Leg 3: DEL to GAU
I had a 6 hour layover in DEL before my last leg to GAU via Air Asia (IA). In retrospect, I could have probably taken an earlier flight, but I would rather have a longer layover than miss my connecting flight during these weird times. After check in and security, I headed straight to the Plaza Premium Lounge. They were limiting to 50% capacity (max 56 passengers allowed), and were offering food å la carte. I grabbed something to eat with masala chai, and replied to few emails before heading to my gate about 45 minutes prior to departure.
The IA flight to GAU was almost 80% full. We had an on-time departure, and I fell asleep even before the take-off. I was under the impression that the process at GAU will be straightforward given that I had already been cleared at DEL for home quarantine. Boy, was I wrong.
At GAU, after luggage collection, one has to fill forms indicating whether they are heading to “Kamrup Metro”, “Kamrup Rural”, “Other Parts of Assam”, or “Other North East States”. Based on this triage, the formalities are different. I was heading to Beltola - hence, “Kamrup Metro”. After doing the required paperwork, I was about to leave the airport with our driver, and was then stopped by an official - “Sir, have you done RT-PCR COVID testing, and if so, when?”. When he found that I had a negative test result, but not done today and not at a Government of Assam testing facility, I was sent back to the “Kamrup Metro” desk. I, of course, pushed back, but to no avail. Evidently, all air travel passengers have to undergo mandatory Assam Government testing before they can travel further.
So, along with around 15 more passengers, we were transported to a centralized testing facility via an Assam State Corporation bus. The journey took just under an hour with traffic and support from an Assam Police escort vehicle.
On our arrival, we were promptly triaged to “Waiting Area 1”, where passengers had to declare the purpose of their visit, install Arogya Setu app, and subsequently do on the spot rapid antigen and RT-PCR testing. The AC seemed to be working, but the arena felt hot and humid. To their credit, all medical and lab personnel were very patient and extremely helpful, especially with the older adults in our group.
After testing, we waited for about an hour in “Waiting Area 2”. Everyone in my group tested negative, and we were allowed to exit the site and get stamped on our way out. I was approved for 14-day home quarantine, finally! The overall process took almost 4 hours.
From the time I started at JFK till now, it has been just under 36 hours. Clearly, I was exhausted, and more than ready to go home.
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